The Tailored Coat For Women
A good coat can define an entire outfit. It is also one of the garments where made-to-measure tailoring makes particular sense. Length, shoulder line, volume and proportion have an immediate effect on how a coat sits on the body and how it works with the clothes underneath. A well-cut coat does not need much styling. Worn over jeans and a wool jumper, it can already make an outfit feel complete. And because a good coat is usually worn for many years, I believe it is worth spending time on the cut, fabric and details rather than treating it as a seasonal purchase. For me, the character of a tailored coat comes from the relationship between fabric, construction and proportion. A dense Scottish tweed behaves very differently from a soft cashmere or alpaca cloth. Austrian loden has its own compact structure and practicality, while waxed cotton gives a trench coat an entirely different character.
Small decisions matter as well: the width of a lapel, the position and shape of the pockets, the length of the coat, the placement of a belt or the choice of buttons can substantially change the result.
A coat is one of my favourite garments to work on. I particularly like the enormous vocabulary of traditional coat making. The Chesterfield, Ulster, Balmacaan, Redingote, Loden coat, Hubertus coat, Duffle coat and Trench coat all developed for different purposes, climates and ways of dressing.
I often return to these traditional forms when developing a coat. They contain constructions and details that have proved their usefulness over a very long time.
The Mira made-to-measure coat
The first coat style in the Agnes Nordenholz Made-to-Measure collection is Mira, a double-breasted tailored coat with peak lapels, a breast pocket, working sleeve buttons and a clearly defined silhouette. The same cut can change considerably depending on the cloth. In a traditional Scottish tweed, Mira becomes a substantial winter coat with a pronounced structure. Made in green corduroy, it has a completely different, less formal character. At my atelier in Berlin, you can choose from fabric collections from British, Scottish, Italian and Austrian mills. The selection includes Scottish tweeds, wool and cashmere cloths, alpaca fabrics and traditional Austrian loden. For a made-to-measure trench coat, I also work with waxed cottons in different weights and colours.
Fabrics for a tailored coat for women
Choosing the cloth is one of the most important decisions when making a coat.
We work only with natural materials like wool, cashmere, cotton, mohair, alpaca and silk.
A coat requires more from a fabric than a jacket does. The cloth has to work over a larger surface, hold the intended silhouette and have enough substance for the construction of the garment. At the same time, weight, softness and drape determine how the coat feels when worn.
Depending on the design, I work with materials including:
- Scottish tweed
- wool and wool-cashmere cloth
- Cashmere
- Alpaca
- Austrian loden
- corduroy
- waxed cotton for trench coats
- Silk
- Linen
- Mohair
Rather than starting with a fixed seasonal collection, I prefer to choose the cloth according to the coat we are making and how it will actually be worn.
The austrian film director Marie Kreutzer, wearing a tailored green corduroy coat.
The process of a made-to-measure coat for women
The process begins at my atelier in Berlin or at one of the trunk shows in Vienna.
- During the first appointment, we look at the coat style, proportions and intended use and select the appropriate fabric.
- Measurements are taken and the existing pattern is adapted to the individual figure.
- For the first fitting, a toile is prepared in Berlin. This allows us to check the balance, length, shoulder line and overall volume before the final coat is made.
- Pattern and fabric is shipped to our partner manufactory in Italy, where experienced tailors craft the coat
- After 8-10 weeks, the coat arrives for final fitting and any necessary adjustment
Please note, that the complete production takes up to 3-4 month, depending on the amount of fittings and the lead time of the production in Italy.
Prices for a Made To Measure or Bespoke Coat for Women
The price for a tailored coat depends on the style, the construction, the details like hand stitched buttonholes or special lining and the main fabric.
We kindly ask to make an appointment to discuss the options.
