The Pants

Made-To-Measure pants for women

Tailored pants are probably one of the most challenging garments when it comes to precise tailoring.

From my own experience, finding a well-fitting pair of ready-to-wear trousers can be almost impossible — and often very frustrating. Every body has different measurements and proportions, while the industrial sizing system covers only a limited range of body types. Agnes Nordenholz offers made-to-measure pants for women in different sizes, proportions and body types.

There is no right or wrong body, there is only your body and we make pants for YOU.

Why a good pair of pants is hard to find

A pair of trousers does not fit only at the waist and hips. The rise, crotch line, seat shape, thigh width, knee width, hem width, balance and drape of the fabric are equally important. Even small adjustments can change the entire line of the trousers.

For women, trouser fitting is particularly complex. The relationship between waist, hips, pelvis and posture varies far more than industrial sizing systems can reflect. A good pair of made-to-measure trousers must allow freedom of movement without looking too wide. It should shape the body without restricting it.

What Makes Made-to-Measure Pants Different from Ready-to-Wear

Made-to-measure pants are created around your individual measurements, proportions and personal style. Unlike ready-to-wear pants, they are not based on a standard size system, but adjusted to the body before the final garment is made.

You can choose from a selection of high-quality European fabrics and define the details according to your wardrobe and occasion — from waistband and pockets to pleats, cuffs or side adjusters.At Agnes Nordenholz, quality begins with the material. We work with natural fibres such as wool, cotton, linen and silk, and avoid polyester or elastane blends. The result is a pair of made-to-measure pants with a refined line, natural movement and lasting character.

The Process in the Atelier – Canvas fitting

The process begins with a personal consultation in the Berlin atelier. We discuss the desired silhouette, the occasion, the fabric and the details before taking measurements.

The fitting process is especially important for pants. A canvas fitting model gives us the possibility to examine balance, rise, seat, leg shape and length before the final pants are made. This step helps to avoid unnecessary compromise and gives the final garment more precision.
Now we adjust your pattern and discuss the details.

Fabrics, Waistbands and Pants with Pockets

The fabric determines how pants fall and how they feel when worn. A wool fresco behaves differently from flannel, linen, gabardine or tweed. Some fabrics create a sharp line, others give more softness, texture or movement. Details such as pleats, side adjusters, belt loops, pockets, cuffs or a clean waistband define the expression of the pants. These elements are selected according to the silhouette, the fabric and the way the pants will be worn.

When I began my education as a tailor and designer, I was often taught that pants for women should not have pockets (or worse: fake pockets), in order to keep the silhouette as slim as possible.
I have always questioned this idea. Women have things to carry, just as men do. At Agnes Nordenholz, pants are therefore designed with pockets as a matter of course, unless you prefer a cleaner construction without them.

Made-To-Measure Pant Styles

• High-waisted pants
  A flattering style that emphasizes the waist and elongates the leg. Especially strong as part of a suit or with a tucked-in shirt.
• Marlene pants
  Inspired by the wide, elegant trousers associated with Marlene Dietrich. A strong, feminine silhouette with historical depth.
• Cigarette pants
  A slim shape. It gives structure and works well when the silhouette should be more precise.
• Pleated pants
  A tailored style with one or two pleats at the front. Pleats add ease, volume and movement, while keeping the silhouette structured. They are especially useful for high-waisted pants, wide-leg pants and classic suit trousers.
• Boot-cut pants
  A classic silhouette that is fitted through the hip and thigh and gently widens from the knee to the hem. The slight flare creates balance and works especially well with boots or heeled shoes.
• Smoking pants
  Formal pants with an evening character, often designed with a clean line and optional side stripe. Ideal as part of a tuxedo or wedding suit.

A Brief History of Women in Pants

For a long time, pants for women were associated with work, sport, reform dress or social provocation. They were practical, but they were also political, because they questioned the strict visual codes of femininity.

In the 20th century, pants became part of a new language of female independence. Figures such as Marlene Dietrich and Katharine Hepburn made them a symbol of modern elegance. Later, the women’s pantsuit and the tuxedo became powerful images of confidence, authority and self-determination.

In Germany, the pantsuit entered the political stage visibly in 1970, when SPD politician Lenelotte von Bothmer appeared in the German Bundestag wearing pants. Later that year, she became the first woman to speak at the Bundestag lectern in a pantsuit.
In Paris, women were formally required to obtain police permission to wear trousers from 1800 until the rule was declared legally obsolete in 2013.

Who Are Made-to-Measure Pants For?

Made-to-measure pants are for women who do not want to accept the limitations of standard sizing. They are especially valuable for clients who often find that ready-to-wear pants fit in one area but not in another. Besides that a custom made pant gives you access to the best fabrics, that you won’t find off the rack. They can be made for business, travel, everyday wear, evening occasions or as part of a made-to-measure suit. A good pair of pants is not only a basic garment. It can become one of the most useful and elegant pieces in a wardrobe.

Consultation, Prices and Appointments

Made-to-measure pants begin with a consultation in the atelier. During the appointment, we discuss silhouette, fabric, fit and possible details.
Prices start at €590. After your individual pattern has been developed, further trousers in the same cut are available at a lower price, depending on the selected fabric and details.
Appointments can be arranged for a personal consultation and fitting in the Agnes Nordenholz atelier in Berlin.